woensdag 14 augustus 2013

Week in Magic

Magic Wood, one of my favorite places in the world. Good bouldering and the most stunning forest you'll ever see in your life. I had mixed goals in Magic, on the one hand I wanted to do some eight degree boulders, but on the other hand I wanted to push my level a bit and work in New Base Line (8b+). Working in an 8b+ and try to send multiple 8's isn't an option in just one week. I've discovered that I have a hard time projecting a boulder over multiple days if the time is limited. If I have for example a month and there is now time pressure I have no problems with longer projects, but if I am on a short trip the urge to have some quick successes usually has the upper hand.

Besides this urge to have some quick sends, it was warm in the forest. Not just a bit warmer than usual but more like boiling hot. On the other hand it only rained a few times in the evening. So we were lucky with the weather, it was just impossible for me to try New Base Line. Instead I did some other very good problems such as: Steppenwolf 8b, first time I saw this one dry, wanted to try it for a long time already. Sofa Surfer 8a+, 8a/8a+, needed a night session to stick the sloper, felt like hard 8a+ for me, might be easier with good conditions. Unendliche Geschichte I 8a+, felt good, way better than I expected it to be. The right hand of Darkness 8a. Not a bad score for 6 climbing days.

In October I'll go back for a week. Because Unendliche Geschichte I felt so good and I already did Unendliche Geschichte II I want to try the whole line (8b+). I just need a little more stamina and a good mindset to go for a multiple days project on a one week trip. We'll see how it goes. But before that I'll go on a two week trip to Sweden, Vastervik and Kjugekull. The goal is to climb the Hourglass 8b, a problem that is on my life time to do list.

Photo's Steppenwolf & Wonderboy by: Gerrit Snoek

Photo's Unendliche Geschichte I by: Kenji Tsujimaru

Steppenwolf, 8b

Steppenwolf, 8b

Steppenwolf, 8b

Wonderboy, 5

Unendliche Geschichte I, 8a+

Unendliche Geschichte I, 8a+


Geen opmerkingen:

Een reactie plaatsen